Truffles, gold leaf and triple-digit prices: Status dishes are back

No blinging way, at least not for some luxury-seekers. In the latest sign that nature is, in fact, healing, the status dish is making its flashy, made-for-Instagram return. Such menu items — usually eye-poppingly expensive, often flecked with edible gilding and incorporating famously pricey ingredients such as caviar or truffles — have long been with us. They have occasionally made headlines (as they’re designed to do) and sometimes get compiled into world’s-most-expensive lists. But they had been put on mute, like that colleague on Zoom with the ringing phone, as the pandemic shut down restaurants and made takeout our biggest dining splurge.

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